We had noticed a trend, We saw a lot of people we have known for a while now look very different, it’s as if everyone had gone on rampage and were looking lighter than we have always known them to be, it's like it’s no more cool to be dark skinned. The new cool seems to be to look as white skinned as possible, We know for a fact that to BLEACH IS NOT A NEW THING, it’s the new method of going about it that's alarming. We hear that it’s not just about skin lightening cream no more, now it’s from the inside out-You inject into the blood-stream and then take some pills. So in order, to get to the bottom of it all and to get the proper person to talk about it, we went in search of the right answers.
What you read here is a well researched report from an expert who should know, and that's because she is well versed in the beauty treatment world and treating people with skin problems is part of her 9 to 5.
What we particularly found alarming was that the injection used for skin lightening, is part of the treatment for HIV and Cancer patients.
DERMACARE MEDICAL LTD.
Dr. Vivian Oputa
Invasive Bleaching
I visited Singapore several years ago and noticed that almost all beauty shops promoted skin whitening pills. On further enquiry, I learned that the practice of skin bleaching or whitening as it is popularly referred to was very popular in that part of the world. The tablets promised to give you a much brighter, even toned complexion when taken regularly. The active ingredient, Glutathione is a powerful antioxidant that naturally occurs in the body and is capable of protecting the skin as well as the cornea, lens and retina of the eye against radiation damage.
It is given to cancer and HIV patients and in other diseases where glutathione is depleted. In HIV, glutathione levels are low and this contributes to immune deficiency as the lymphocytes need normal levels of glutathione to function properly. Glutathione is produced by the body and with age, the levels fall. Low levels or the Lack of glutathione leads to liver failure. It also leads to immune system failure and cells die from oxidative stress.
It was discovered that patients on high dose Glutathione therapy had significant skin lightening as a side effect. Now this has become a fast growing treatment for cosmetic purposes. Injectable Glutathione has become more popular than tablets and are given intravenously 2 – 3 times a week for about 6 months. The digestive tract is bypassed and the maximum concentration reaches the target cells. Results are more dramatic in lighter skinned individuals and it is common to augment results with chemical peels. Glutathione is also known for its anti-aging benefits.
Glutathione acts to lighten skin by inhibiting Tyrosinase the enzyme responsible for the production of the pigment Melanin without destroying the pigment producing cells known as Melanocytes.
The use of glutathione in high doses for cosmetic purposes is a non-regulated procedure which could be fatal if not properly used. Glutathione is a drug and must be administered by a doctor or registered nurse. Side effects include nausea, vomiting, abdominal pain, liver failure and death.
The quest for lighter skin could cost you your life. This unregulated use of high dose glutathione is relatively new and time will tell what side effects may occur in the long term.
BLEACHING
Bleaching which is often referred to as toning, lightening, whitening and brightening is a very important aspect of clinical skin care and is performed for corrective and aesthetic purposes. Its practice cuts across all races including those of European descent.
It is required that clinical treatments are followed with a home maintenance regimen for maximum results. A full spectrum sunblock must be worn to prevent re-darkening and of course to protect against sun damage.
With advances in skincare technology, a wide range of SAFE bleaching products are available. These products which have become increasingly popular gradually lighten the skin and dark pigment such as freckles, age spots, sun spots and spots due to acne scarring. They are also effective in the treatment of excessive pigmentation known as Melasma which may occur in pregnancy, female hormonal imbalance or as a result of oral contraceptive use. The end result is a clearer, brighter and more even toned complexion.
In the past, dangerous chemicals such as mercury and steroids were the lightening agents of choice with devastating side effects. These dangerous ingredients destroy the pigment producing cells and deposit in the body’s internal organs including the kidney and bone marrow in dangerously high and toxic levels.
More recently safe, natural skin lightening agents have replaced the dangerous chemicals with good results. These natural agents include: Vitamin C, Kojic Acid, Licorice Extract, Arbutin (Bearberry), Burner Root Extract, Mulberry, Scutelleria Extract, Melanostat (an amino acid based ingredient). Hydroquinone is a chemical lightening agent which must be used under medical supervision and is considered to be the Gold Standard pigment correcting ingredient. All of these agents inhibit Tyrosinase the enzyme responsible for the production of the pigment Melanin without destroying the pigment producing cells known as Melanocytes.
Melanostat is a new bleaching agent that inhibits the Tyrosinase enzyme and acts on the melanin receptors.
Lightening agents when combined with exfoliating agents such as Vitamin A, Sutilains (such as papain), Alpha hydroxy acids (AHA’s) and Beta hydroxy acids (BHA’s) provide excellent results since the removal of the dead surface layer of skin aids the penetration of the skin lightening agents.
In areas where there is excessive build up of dead cells or callus formation, the skin tends to be darker than normal. This is commonly seen on knees, elbows and knuckles. It is advisable to regularly exfoliate this skin and if necessary perform professional peels to achieve optimal results.
There are special gentle formulations for treating hyperpigmentation in the eye area commonly referred to as “Dark Circles” or “Racoon Eyes”. This pigmentation may be genetic (common in people of East African and Indian descent), as a result of repeated friction, use of dangerous chemicals or due to broken capillaries (tiny blood vessels) in the eye area.
If the pigmentation is as a result of broken capillaries, Topical Vitamin K as well as supplemental Vitamin K and Horsechestnut seed extract are used to strengthen the capillary walls.
A wide range of dangerous chemicals including Steroids, Hair Relaxers and Peroxide have been added to concoctions used to bleach the skin. These “Mixed” Creams often cause devastating damage to the skin leaving the individuals burned, wrinkled and discoloured. Such individuals are often faced with the problem of poor wound healing.
Damaged skin may be nurtured back to “life”. All bleaching agents would have to be stopped, collagen and elastin building supplements taken and professional skin treatments to promote healing performed on a regular basis.
A good bleaching routine should be aimed at eliminating excess pigment and preventing melanin from being formed. In the past, single ingredient products were used but of present, multiple ingredients act synergistically to provide impressive results.
In the United States Europe and South Africa
Mitracarpus scaber Extract’s active ingredient is a derivative of hydroquinone derived from the leaves of a tropical plant. The active ingredient is harounoside. It is more effective than hydroquinone, is less irritating and there is no risk of ochronosis.
Vitamin C in different forms such as L- ascorbic acid, sodium ascorbyl phosphate and magnesium ascorbyl phosphate can reduce melanin formation.
Azaleic acid which was originally used for treating acne was found to have skin lightening properties. It is the by product of a yeast known as Pityrosporum ovale. It works on overactive melanocytes and does not affect normally pigmented skin making it a good choice for pigmented spots such as acne discolouration and melasma.
Kojic Acid is derived from a mushroom commonly seen in the Far East and it inhibits tyrosinase.
Patience is required when treating hyperpigmentation. Don’t expect results overnight. Adhere to a regular program and when the desired results have been achieved, reduce the frequency of use of the bleaching creams but continue to use sun protection
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